| 1. Set your foreground color
to black and your background color to white.
2. Click on your
Preset Shapes Tool:
- Ellipse
- Antialias checked
- Vector checked
- Line width: 1
- Line style: solid
3. Starting at 100, 100 draw out a narrow
"egg" shape, ending at 300, 400. (This will give you an
ellipse that is 200 pixels wide by 300 pixels high.)
4. Click on Objects/Align/Center in
Canvas. (Now your ellipse will be centered in your canvas, giving
you lots of room to work.)
5. Click on
your
Objects Selector Tool then click Node
Edit in your Tool Options box
6. Activate both side nodes. There
are two ways I know of to do this:
- Left click on one node and while
holding down your shift key click on the other node. (The
problem with this method is that I usually move one of the
nodes when I click on it.)
- Left click on your canvas
and while holding down your left mouse button
"surround" these two nodes as shown below:
7. Left click on either of these
nodes and move them both up about 100 pixels - don't worry about being
exact. (Since you've selected both nodes, they will move
together...nice, huh?)
8. Right click on your top node and
change to Symmetric. Do the same for your bottom node. (Right
Click/Node Type/Symmetric) 9.
Click on your bottom node and drag one of your control arms out to
give your vase a nice flat base. 10.
Here's where you add your personal touch: manipulate your nodes until
you get the shape you want. Here's what I did:
-
I wanted my vase thinner,
so I just "scrunched" my vase by using the Object
Selector Tool to deform the shape.
-
Now my bottom was too
narrow, so I pulled the control arm out on the bottom node
-
To "define" the
top of my vase, I pulled the top node down slightly and pulled
out the control arms to just past the "sides" of my
vase. This gave me nice sharp corners at the top
without having to add any new nodes! (If
you changed your node to symmetric, both control arms will move
when you drag on one.)
-
Click on Objects/Align/Center in
Canvas to re-center your vase.
11. This is what I ended
up with:
 
Tip: notice the little
* next to the name of your image in the title bar?
That means
your image isn't saved.
Save now
Did the *
disappear? Yes? Good job!
12. Activate Layer1 in
your layer palette. This will create a new layer for the next vector
object we draw...this is the last one.
13. Click on your
Preset Shapes Tool:
- Ellipse
- Antialias checked
- Vector checked
- Line width: 1
- Line style: solid
14. Draw an ellipse for the top opening of
your vase.
15. Use your Object Selector Tool to move it
into place. Use your Node Edit to place your two side nodes at
the top corner of your vase and form a nice curve at the top.
Pull the bottom node down just enough so that the bottom of this ellipse is behind
your vase:

Save now
16. Rename Layer3 (the top layer)
to "vase".
17. Rename Layer2 (the middle
layer) to "mouth".
18. We're actually done with our
vector objects, but we're not going to get rid of them just yet.
Before we go to the next step, make sure your layer palette looks like
this:

19. Add two new raster layers
above your vector layers and name them as shown:

20. Right click on the Ellipse
shape on your "vase" layer and click on "Create Raster
Selection".
21. Turn off the visibility for
your vector "vase" layer.
22. Make your
"vase-color" layer active and fill your selection with a
gradient of your choice, using the following settings:

23. While still selected, apply
the Eye Candy 3 glass filter with the following settings:
-
Bevel width: 34
-
Bevel Shape: Rounded
-
Flaw Spacing: 20
-
Flaw Thickness: 12
-
Opacity: 66% (or whatever
looks good to you)
-
Refraction: 34
-
Color: choose a shade from
your gradient
(Slide the Eye Candy window over, click on the
color box, then you can use the dropper to pick a color from
your image)
-
Highlight
Brightness: 100
-
Highlight
Sharpness: 35
-
Direction: 45
-
Inclination: 12
I ended up with this:

24. Not sure you like this
color? DON'T USE UNDO!!!
25. Turn off the visibility for
the layer you just made, add a new layer and try another gradient.
Keep adding layers and trying different combinations of fills and
filters. Sometimes I have 5 or 6 layers before I'm happy!
Make sure you make a
note of what you did to the layers you like...you'll have to repeat
these steps for the mouth and it's a horrible feeling to create
something you like and not remember how you did it!
You can also try other
fills and filters to get totally different effects.
Save now
26. Once you have the
"look" you like, repeat these steps for the
"mouth" of your vase:
-
Create a raster selection
from your vector object
-
Turn off the visibility for
all layers this time
-
Make your
"mouth-color" layer active
-
Fill the selected area
(change your gradient direction to: 221)
-
Apply your filter
27. If you are using Eye Candy
Glass, use the following settings:
-
Bevel width: 10
-
Bevel Shape: Rounded
-
Flaw Spacing: 40
-
Flaw Thickness: 12
-
Opacity: 100% (we want this
darker than our vase)
-
Refraction: 20
-
Color: choose a shade from
your gradient
(Slide the Eye Candy window over, click on the
color box, then you can use the dropper to pick a color from
your image)
-
Highlight
Brightness: 100
-
Highlight
Sharpness: 35
-
Direction: 45
-
Inclination: 12
28. Rename your
"vase-color" layer to "vase front". (What
can I say? This was easier than going back and rewriting the
tutorial...not to mention making new screen shots!)
29. Duplicate your "vase
front" layer.
30. Merge your "Copy of vase
front" layer and your "mouth-color" layer and rename
this merged layer "vase back".
Save now
31. Duplicate your image by
holding down your shift key and hitting "d". Save this
copy as "my_vase2.psp".
32. Minimize your original and
work on your copy now.
33. Delete all layers EXCEPT
"vase front" and "vase back" and
"Layer1".
34. Rename "Layer1" to
"flowers" and move this layer between your other two layers.
35. Make your "vase
front" layer active.
36. We want to select only our
vase. There are different ways to do this, but I like this
method because I have these icons already on my toolbar:
-
Selections/Select All
-
Selections/Float
-
Selections/Defloat
37. Invert your selection.
38. Feather your selection by 8
pixels.
39. Click on your Retouch Tool
and use the following settings:

39. Carefully go along the top of
your vase to darken the edge. Click above your selected area and
slowly move down toward your vase so you can darken the top edge
without going down the sides. This is where the undo button
comes in REAL handy!!!
 40.
Deselect 41. Make your "vase
front" layer active. 42.
Repeat steps 36 through 39 for the top of your "vase back". 43.
With the size of our vase, we'd need an awfully large canvas to put
any flowers in it, so let's resize it now. 44.
Make your "vase front" layer active. 45.
Click on Image/Resize and enter 60%. Make sure All layers IS NOT
checked. 46. Repeat for
your "vase back" layer. 47.
We need to move our vase to the lower part of our canvas, but we want
to keep the front and back lined up when we move them, so..... 48.
Click on the "Layer Groups" tab in your Layer Palette and
change both "vase" layer to 1 by clicking once on the word
None: 
49.
Use your Mover tool to move your vase down to the bottom portion of
your canvas. 50. Now we're
ready to add our flowers. 51.
You can find lots of flower tutorials to fill your vase with.
I'm using daffodils I made from
Hanna's
Daffodil Tutorial. 52.
Since I had tubes each of my flowers and leaves separately, I placed
each piece on it's own layer with each new layer created between the
"vase back" and "vase front" layers. I ended
up with this:
 53.
Turn off the visibility for your two "vase" layers and merge
all your flower layers. 54.
Now, I don't know about you, but my stems usually don't go through the
bottom of my vases...LOL! So we have a little problem we need to
fix here. 55. Make either
of your "vase" layers active and:
56. Use your eraser tool with the
settings shown below to erase the stems which are showing at the
bottom of your vase. Because you're using a selected area, you won't
erase too much of the stems, but enough so that it appears that your
stems are sitting in the middle of your vase.
 57.
The finishing touch is to lower the opacity on your "vase
front" layer to about 60%. This makes it appear as though
your stems are showing through your vase. 58.
Crop your image to size:
*** Remember the first
file your saved?
The "my_vase.psp" file?
I hope you saved it with your vectors intact.
Open that image and by doing a little
tweaking and node editing you can create
a totally different shaped vase.
Play around and see what you can come up with!
|